L'Oréal signs agreement with Debut for co-design of cosmetic ingredients

The French giant has signed an agreement to "replace conventional ingredients" in the cosmetics sector

08 of July of 2024
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Biotech
Biotech

L'Oréal continues its commitment to biotechnology. The French cosmetics group is strengthening its investment in Debut Biotech and is committed to co-designing new ingredients for cosmetics, hair care and fragrances. 

The French multinational will work with the biotech company to create new biotechnology-based ingredients with patented advanced biomanufacturing processes that combine fermentation and cell-free technology.

L'Oréal Groupe has just signed an agreement with US biotech pioneer Debut to develop more than a dozen bioidentical ingredients that will replace conventionally sourced ingredients currently used in several of L'Oréal's global brands in the skin, hair, colour and fragrance cosmetics categories.

The French cosmetics group has put a particular focus on strategic decisions that prioritise scientific innovation in the different categories of the beauty sector. 

Debut, an integrated biotech company that creates scientifically designed, bio-based and clinically proven products and brands on a large scale, claims that its practices are "based on potency, purity and performance".  The company, which is based in San Diego, argues that its goal is to facilitate the beauty industry's shift from traditionally sourced ingredients - derived from petroleum and farming - to high-performance, potentially more sustainable biotech ingredients. 

Debut CEO and founder Joshua Britton explained: "Debut's green science is a breakthrough in biotechnology processes and unlocks a new generation of bioactive cosmetic ingredients and products that marries the best of nature and supply chain transparency, safety, purity, consistency, quality and science-backed data". The company points out that "in the face of climate change, worsening pollution and the constant demand for natural resources, there is an urgent need for a sustainable supply of ingredients". The biotech company sees the business as "highly complementary" to L'Oréal's R&D in its sustainability commitments and efforts. 

Debut says its main objective is to be a pioneer in the move to biotechnology. The French group took a stake in Debut Biotech in 2023 and acquired a minority stake in the startup Debut Biotech with the aim of breeding new ingredients of natural origin and achieving its sustainability goals. L'Oréal then leveraged its investment through its Bold fund and led a $34 million financing round in the startup.