How does the restriction of microplastics affect the cosmetics industry?

Just ten days ago, the European Commission announced a ban on intentionally added microplastics in cosmetic products. We have read numerous headlines saying a sad and longing farewell to glitter, or what is commonly referred to by young people as 'glitter-brilli'. But what is behind this ban, and what are industry professionals telling us?From Muttu Lab, Celia Campos, Co-Founder and Technical Director, explains to Next in Beauty that microplastics are all those particles of polymers and synthetic additives that are smaller than five millimetres in size and are organic, insoluble and resistant to degradation. Polymers are present in exfoliants. Microbeads are made from microplastics, but they are also used to achieve a particular texture, colour or fragrance, as in the case of glitter. "We find microplastics in ingredients to give consistency in creams and gels, sunscreens, shower gels... They can be used to give viscosity and fixation in styling products and make-up. And of course, the famous glitter that can be used in products to add shine and colour that are usually present in make-up and hair products", explains Celia Campos from Muttu Lab.The decision was taken by the European body in the framework of the Sustainable Goals set out in the 2030 Agenda and aims to prevent the generation of around half a million tonnes of these microplastics. "In the particular case of microplastics, studies from 2015 show that European countries use 4,130 tonnes of microplastics in cosmetics annually", says Seila Leiras, Senior Consultant Cosmetic products at Sigillum Knowledge Solutions, S.L. "This restriction means that chemical mixtures cannot be marketed if they contain more than 0.01% w/w of intentionally added microplastics" explains Verónica García, Senior Consultant at BSpoke. As García points out, this is good news for the health of animals, humans and the environment. "In 2015, the EU cosmetics industry made a voluntary commitment to eliminate plastic microbeads in cosmetic rinse-off products. The goal was to eliminate the use of these microbeads in cosmetic products by 2020 and already in 2017 a 97.6% reduction was achieved," says Verónica García.How will it influence cosmetic products?The implementation deadlines vary depending on the product. The European Union has already warned of an imminent restriction that will come into force on 17 October for cosmetic products with unbound glitter or micro-pearls.On the other hand, companies using other types of microplastics, which do not include micro-pearls or unbound glitters in their cosmetic products, will have a longer adaptation period. "For rinse-off products a transition period of 4 years is established; for synthetic polymers that encapsulate fragrances and for leave-on products a transition period of 6 years and, finally, for make-up, lipstick and nail products a period of 12 years," says Seila Leiras, who warns of the complexity of product reformulation. "As for the industry, it called for the application of reasonable transition periods in line with SEAC; however, as a counterpoint, some 20 brands and associations considered the proposed legislation too flexible and unnecessarily lenient and even signed a communication to the European Commission urging for a faster and more comprehensive ban on microplastics in cosmetic products. They claimed that the transition periods proposed at the time, and currently adopted, were exceptionally long," adds Seila Leiras.The industry was already aware that this would happen and therefore, as Celia explains, has been adapting its products to the regulation for years: "A Stanpa study in 2020 confirmed that almost 98% of the primary particles used in rinse aid products had been eliminated. In addition to Europe, this ban was also adopted in the UK, China (2020), USA and Canada (2015)". Verónica García, in line with Campos' comments, added that in 2015 the European Union made a voluntary commitment to eliminate microparticles or plastic microspheres (microbeads) in cosmetic rinse-off products: "the objective was to eliminate the use of these microbeads in cosmetic products by 2020 and already in 2017 a reduction of 97.6% was achieved" adds Verónica García.Targeting primary microplastics to preserve the environment Microplastics are differentiated according to their origin and are therefore divided into primary and secondary microplastics. Primary microplastics, as Celia Campos explains, are those present in everyday consumer products such as exfoliating creams and account for 30% of microplastics found in the marine environment. Seila Leiras adds that primary microplastics are those that are then introduced into the waters of the environment and accumulate indefinitely due to their non-biodegradable nature. Secondary microplastics, as Verónica Garcia explains, are those that are generated by the degradation of other plastics, which are not added as such to the formulation of products, but arise after the degradation of plastic materials.But it is the former, as Verónica García argues, that have become the biggest concern in the cosmetics industry: "they are used to attribute a certain quality to the cosmetic product and it will be necessary to look for alternatives to the materials historically used". However, Celia Campos of Muttu Lab, also points out that secondary microplastics are also a major concern and that it is important to take them into account in order to have alternatives to their use.Seila Leiras, of Sigilium Knowledge Solutions, said that as early as 2019, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) proposed to restrict the use of polymer plastics in cosmetic products, because they could be considered a source of primary plastics. The list in the ECHA document includes 19 ingredients (among them polyethylene, polypropylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polypropylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, styrene-acrylic copolymer, polyethylene terephthalate...). "Many cosmetic manufacturers have stopped using the polymers on this list, with consumers and the environment in mind," says Leiras.The most sustainable alternatives to microplastics Companies have been working with them for years, long before the ban. As the experts explained, microbeads with an exfoliating function have been replaced by seeds, peels or fruit stones.In the case of secondary microplastics, Celia Campos pointed out that in the substitution of packaging, research is being carried out on wood and algae: "we must opt for non-toxic, recyclable materials made from recycled and biodegradable materials". The challenge for the cosmetics industry is to completely eliminate the use of microplastics in cosmetic products as soon as possible by finding alternatives that are safe from a consumer health and safety point of view, affordable and environmentally friendly.

How does the restriction of microplastics affect the cosmetics industry?

The European Commission has banned intentionally added microplastics in cosmetic products in an effort to reduce half a million tonnes of these materials and forces industry to look for sustainable alternatives