360 degrees: innovation, development and product in suncare

Sun protection for the skin is an increasingly important issue worldwide, as exposure to UV rays can cause damage to the skin and is a trigger for serious diseases such as skin cancer. Sunscreen products, such as creams and lotions, are one of the most effective ways to prevent these harmful effects. But how is the value chain of production, research and distribution of these products working?Research, development and product innovationResearch is a key aspect in the manufacture of sunscreen skincare products. Companies invest in research and development to improve the efficacy of their products, using new ingredients and technologies to provide better protection and longer-lasting protection on the skin.Innovation helps to improve the efficacy of photoprotection products, as in the case of 'Derex Dermopharmacy Experts'. Iván Hernández, Managing Director of Derex, explained that new technologies have had a positive influence on the company: "They remove barriers to innovation, and allow us to expand the range of possibilities when developing a photoprotector. We have now invested in state-of-the-art manufacturing reactors to expand our product range. These technologies are faster, cleaner, and allow a lot of creativity to develop unique textures that, after application, the user will not forget". As Iván Hernández points out, at 'Derex' this innovation and research in sunscreens is taking place from the point of view of the cosmeticity of the products, although he also points out that "we are already very involved in the search to incorporate more environmentally friendly filters, sustainable packaging and in providing unique sensory experiences, without forgetting the main objective of this type of dermocosmetics, which is to protect our skin from the sun." Currently, Derex wants to incorporate the latest trends in filters and textures: "we are working on blends of our own epigenetics combined with a wide range of physical, chemical and biological filters, which protect against blue light (HEV), infrared radiation (IR), ultraviolet light (UV) and visible light (VIS), and which make them unique in the market" assures the General Manager of Derex.What is the ideal filter? Of great relevance in this section is the investigation of the sunscreens used in the formulation of a sunscreen product. In recent years, there has been growing concern in the industry about the possible negative effects of chemical filters used in sunscreen products. These chemical filters, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, have been linked to coral bleaching and other negative environmental effects. This issue has also become a debate in the scientific community, forcing them to create new alternatives in the face of bans from various regulatory bodies. Irene Zaldívar, from ADParticles, introduces the ADPCosmetics mineral filters that can be integrated into cosmetic products: "ADPCosmetics' size-balanced mineral filters are manufactured under a patented and innovative dry particle dispersion technology, called COSmart, which allows obtaining a balanced particle size greater than 100 nm, being able to protect against the entire spectrum of solar radiation (UVB, UVA, HEV, VIS, IRA) with a single ingredient and being environmentally friendly" explains the CEO of ADParticles, who assures that her company believes that the ideal filter is one that, "in addition to caring for and protecting the skin, being suitable for all skin types, is also environmentally sustainable, especially with regard to the marine ecosystem. "But as they indicate from Labex, physical filters have some advantages over chemical filters in terms of cosmeticity and performance: "Physical filters are not absorbed, but reflect light, so they can be recommended for products intended for sensitive skin and for babies. In addition, they do not have to be applied 30 minutes before sun exposure as they do not need to be absorbed," says Dr. Badr Rais, CEO of Labex. However, she points out that consumers tend to prefer products with chemical filters because they do not leave the skin whitish or give a feeling of heaviness on the skin.Clinical studies and the evaluation of the SPFClinical studies are essential to demonstrate the effectiveness of products and to obtain the necessary approvals for their sale. These studies provide critical information on the safety and efficacy of sunscreen products and are essential to ensure that products coming to market are safe and effective for consumer use. In the case of clinical studies and efficacy and safety testing, Labex performs the evaluation of UVB, UVA, water resistance in vivo in accordance with ISO 24444, ISO 24442, ISO 1886, ISO 16217 and FDA standards.The SPF assessment must also be taken into account for sunscreen products. SPF is an indicator of the ability of a sunscreen product to protect the skin against the sun's UVB rays and is assessed by in vivo human testing. In these tests, a measured amount of sunscreen product is applied to the skin and exposed to a controlled amount of UVB radiation. The amount of time it takes for the skin to redden with and without the sunscreen product is compared to determine the SPF of the product. This procedure is also carried out at Labex, and although he claims that the criteria are the same in all laboratories, there is one step that is likely to be considered more "subjective" depending on the laboratory: "it corresponds to the assessment of erythema during the irradiation phase of the subjects. One laboratory may be more conservative than another and stop irradiations at the minimum erythema detected. In this case, the SPF value will be slightly lower than that of another laboratory that decides to continue irradiating. This can sometimes explain the difference detected between laboratories. In all cases the SPF advertised on a product must be demonstrated and justified by study according to the ISO standards mentioned," argued Dr. Badr Rais. "One recommendation we make to manufacturers, after evaluating the SPF by official methods, is to carry out outdoor studies, i.e. studies in the open air where the subjects sunbathe, bathe, walk... under our supervision and under normal conditions of use to check both safety and efficacy over the course of the hours. And, a recommendation made to consumers is to reapply the product in the case of not reaching the recommended amount per application. If, on the other hand, they don't know how to calculate this amount, there are now many tips that make it easier to find out how and how much to apply," adds Dr. Badr Rais, CEO of Labex.Latest developments in photoprotection end productsThe production of sunscreen products, in addition to complying with the standards set by the relevant legislative bodies which must be adapted according to the geographical area, must also face 'another impassive judge': the demands of the consumer. And here, innovation plays a transcendental and unique role because it can help to meet increasingly demanding and specific needs.Although mentioned above, this could include products with new generation sunscreens that provide more extensive and effective protection against UV rays and are often more stable and durable and offer protection for longer.In the case of Acofarma, its brand Nesira, at the last Infarma held in March, it presented its latest launch in solar products in which it dispensed with chemical filters. As they explain from Nesira, Nesira mineral fluent Emulsion SPF50+, "we are working with proprietary epigenetic mixtures combined with a wide range of physical, chemical and biological filters, which protect against blue light (HEV), infrared radiation (IR), ultraviolet light (UV) and visible light (VIS), and which make them unique in the market". But what was the reason for dispensing with chemical filters? "There are two reasons: on the one hand, we are working with our own epigenetic mixtures combined with a wide range of physical, chemical and biological filters, which protect against blue light (HEV), infrared radiation (IR), ultraviolet light (UV) and visible light (VIS), and which make them unique in the market," explained Brigitte Espurz, Brand Manager of Nesira, and Montserrat Enrique, Technical Director of Acofarma.Cantabria Labs are pioneers in the production of oral photoprotection capsules. These are food supplements made from plant-based components such as beta-carotene, vitamins and natural extracts that help to protect all skin types from solar radiation. These capsules, as Cantabria Labs points out, neutralise the action of ultraviolet solar radiation and help to prevent and repair the damage caused and improve the appearance of the skin. "Photoprotection from the inside is a new concept of protection that multiplies your skin's resistance to the sun. It is the ideal complement to sun creams as it provides a more complete and deeper protection while enjoying the sun". HELIOCARE Oral, as they are called, are composed of Fernblock®, which has the ability to repair direct damage with high antioxidant activity from the inside, increases the skin's resistance to sunburn and preserves the vitality of skin cells against radiation.'Laboratorios Babé' has also launched a new facial photoprotector: Super Fluid Despigment+, which is a depigmenting sunscreen that cares for the skin, protects it, prevents and attenuates spots. This new photoprotector stands out for the synergy of Vitamin C with Tranexamic Acid (TXA). It is water-resistant, suitable for all skin types, and also helps to delay skin ageing, attenuate wrinkles, flaccidity and spots.Ultimately, the value chain of production, research and distribution of sunscreen products is essential to ensure the health of the skin and the environment.

360 degrees: innovation, development and product in suncare

How do companies in the sector try to stay ahead in sun protection products?