Beiersdorf innovates in anti-ageing with an active ingredient

New anti-ageing active ingredient protects skin's collagen from "sugar damage"

23 of April of 2024
Beiersdorf

After ten years of research, Beiersdorf has created an active ingredient that combats skin ageing and the formation of wrinkles induced by sugar. The company says that many scientific studies have shown that excessive sugar consumption is associated with various risk factors, but until now, it was not known that sugar had a negative impact on our skin and that it could be the cause of wrinkles. 

The German company explained that sugar weakens the skin's collagen and eastin fibres and causes a loss of elasticity and strength. The sugar itself in the process of glycation also changes its colour and becomes yellowish, hardened and wrinkled. 

Now, Beiersdorf has created a new ingredient that is the result of ten years of research: "At Beiersdorf, we have many years of experience in deciphering complex skin processes based on new knowledge and technologies. Our Research & Development department has driven innovative developments and set milestones particularly in the field of skin ageing. We have done pioneering work to discover the importance of Q10 in skin ageing and finally make the skin's own Q10 available for the first time as an active ingredient," said Dr. Gitta Neufang, Corporate Senior Vice President Research & Development.

"In total, our team tested around 1,700 active ingredients. Many substances intercept the sugar before it can react; they are sacrificed and saccharified. This effect must be avoided," adds Dr. Julia Weise, laboratory manager of Beiersdorf's biological testing department. "In the end, there was a clear "winning ingredient" called NAHP, which stands for N-Acetyl-L-hydroxyproline. "NAHP prevents the glycation reaction from occurring in the first place and prevents the formation of AGEs at a higher rate, by up to 68%. The sugar molecules are neutralised before they can bind to proteins and weaken collagen fibres, for example. That is why we have given our active ingredient NAHP the middle name 'Glycostop'. We have a patent for its use in cosmetic products and have published several scientific papers on the subject," explains Julia Weise.