Towards safer and more efficient cosmetics

Study reveals that 70% of analysed ingredients (318,000) are characterised and provides a solid basis for risk assessment

20 of November of 2024
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Cosmetics industry
Cosmetics industry

The report ‘Establishing Metric Zero for the Beauty and Personal Care Sector’, published in October 2024, presents a transformative outlook for the beauty and personal care industry. The study, which is primarily produced by the Know Better, Do Better (KBDB) initiative and supported by ChemFORWARD, highlights the progress that is being made in the beauty and personal care industry. The study highlights the progress being made towards safer and more sustainable chemistry. Through data sharing and strategic collaborations, the report sets out a roadmap for improving transparency and reducing the environmental and human impact of the industry's products.

The beauty industry, valued at more than $617 billion in 2023, is now undergoing an increasingly evident transformation that is driven by a demand for safer and more sustainable products. The report aims to create a ‘Metric Zero’ starting point to measure and manage the transition to safer chemistry. This effort focuses on characterising ingredients, eliminating hazardous substances and promoting safe alternatives through pre-competitive collaboration, while attempting to provide a global perspective, the report is particularly focused on the US industry.

Key findings of the report

The report's analysis was based on more than 8,500 products and nearly 318,000 ingredients, identifying 2,279 unique ingredients. From this research, five key findings were identified:

  • Chemical risks are identifiable: 70% of the ingredients analysed are characterised, providing a solid basis for assessing risks and making informed decisions.
  • The number of ingredients is manageable: Although the initial list was extensive, most products share common ingredients, simplifying the approach for more efficient management.
  • Persistence of high-risk ingredients: 45 chemicals were identified as having high hazards that should be eliminated, despite the availability of safe alternatives.
  • Full characterisation is essential: 30% of ingredients remain uncharacterised, underlining the urgency of completing chemical risk assessments.
  • Collaboration accelerates progress: Shared data and joint investment have made it possible to close critical information gaps, reducing costs and improving transparency.

For example, alternatives such as isododecane and heptyl undecylenate are available to replace hazardous emollients without compromising product efficacy. However, the challenge lies in ensuring the stability and functionality of the formulations.

Impact of collaboration and next steps

ChemFORWARD's collaborative model has significantly reduced the costs associated with chemical risk assessments from thousands of dollars per substance to a few dollars per closed data gap. In 2023, 25 chemical assessments sponsored by KBDB members were completed, filling more than 20,000 data gaps and setting an unprecedented standard of transparency.

The report also calls on industry to continue to invest in chemical assessments, eliminate high-risk substances and adopt ingredients verified as safe. This approach will not only protect human health and the environment, but also strengthen consumer confidence in beauty products.