Montserrat Pedro

Cosmetic myths under debate (VIII): ‘natural cosmetics have more active ingredients’

Science media manager for cosmetics companies
27 of May of 2024
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How do you feel after reading the title? What do you think of this sentence?

Look, it says the same to me as ‘we take your company to the next level’, ‘we are a multidisciplinary team’ or ‘we are a young and dynamic team’.

They seem to say a lot, but they mean very little (and much less, if you don't prove it).

So the question is, why say it? And if it is claimed, why not provide evidence?

Shall I tell you? Because you can't prove it. It is a fallacy, a mantra that has been repeated ad nauseam and ends up being just another meaningless claim.

But I'm not going to stop here, I'm going to argue it! So, let's dot the i's and cross the t's:

1. More is not always better.

Many times, brands claim this because they use extracts, distillates, hydrolates, floral or citrus waters... Let's say a solvent with little things, as I say... And those little things are active ingredients, but are they concentrated enough to be considered as such? Are they in the formula?

So, just because it is formulated with those ingredients, it doesn't imply that the actives present are at the right concentrations to have any function. Even if it has 30 or 300 actives in it.

And that begs the question, is it really necessary for there to be ‘so many’? More is better?

In the end, regardless, the harsh reality is that, in order to demonstrate effectiveness in cosmetics, efficacy studies must be conducted.

But wait, that brings me to my next point....

2. Just because it is there does NOT mean it is effective.

I will make an effort and imagine that those 30 or 300 extra active ingredients, which natural cosmetics have, are at the right concentration.

But bearing in mind that there are many things that can interfere with its effectiveness (for better or worse), things change a bit... It turns out that pH, interaction with other ingredients, type of formulation, stability, etc., can all affect its effectiveness!

So once again, effectiveness must be proven by a study!

Is the active ingredient the most important ingredient? I guess I've got it wrong and a formula is just an active ingredient, and not a set of ingredients... Mmmm, I don't think so. Because we're talking about cosmetics and each ingredient has a function... I'll tell you more!

3. There are ingredients without which nothing would matter.

We have already seen that formula specifications or stability directly affect their effectiveness, as well as ingredients.

Yes, ingredients that are NOT considered active, but also happen to do things. OMG!

For example: they are filmogenic, they improve the absorption of actives, they are stabilisers or emulsifiers, they are preservatives, ... See where I'm going?

What would an active ingredient do without a preservative? Or if its formula was not stable? Or would it hydrate the same without a filmogen?

So, no supporting actors! Because without them, nothing would matter. And I'll save the best for last...

4. Natural is not synonymous with effective... Neither is .....

Harmless, safe, better, delicate, chupiguay, chachi piruli?

This false belief that natural is better just because it is natural is absurd.

And I will say it out loud: natural is not OVERnatural. The virtues of these ingredients do NOT come from their naturalness. If I synthesise the same thing, won't it be just as effective?

Of course! Because chemistry is chemistry, and it is not about natural or synthetic, it is about organic and inorganic, it is about reaction or mixture. And the fact is that (I have to say it) EVERYTHING IS CHEMISTRY!

In short...

It's the same old story: just another way of belittling what is different (what is unnatural), without providing any proof. And, therefore, it remains an empty phrase.

So every time you read ‘natural cosmetics have more active ingredients’ remember that the important thing is to convey that a cosmetic is a set of ingredients, with certain characteristics, among them, natural.

And that this natural option will be really cool, if it is accompanied by doing things well, effectiveness, sustainability and explaining everything that it contains, instead of what it does not 😉 😉.

Now I have to ask you, will you join me, what do you think?

Don't think twice and take action! Let's revolutionise the truth in the cosmetics industry with MONesty, authenticity and the simplicity of complex things, uniting marketing with the technical. For a communication that is truthful, transparent and based on scientific arguments, and that is committed to MONesto marketing.

About the author
Montserrat Pedro

Montserrat Pedro Ràfols

Science media manager for cosmetics companies

Science media manager for cosmetics companies, which are committed to differentiating, effective and above all truthful communication.  My objective? To revolutionise marketing in the cosmetics sector with my own formula: MONesto Marketing. A unique recipe that combines enthusiasm, sincerity and the simplicity of complex things, with all the scientific-technical knowledge acquired in my professional career as head of R&D and chemistry. Find out more about her on her website: moncm.es  
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