Solid cosmetics... The new trend?

Its use goes back decades. We have been using it for many years in the form of bars of soap, powder make-up, lipsticks or even deodorant sticks

Cosmetics waterless
Cosmetics waterless

In recent years, solid cosmetics has emerged as a significant trend in the beauty industry, not as a fad but as a response to the growing demand for responsible and sustainable products.

But, contrary to popular belief, solid cosmetics is not an innovation. Its use goes back decades. We have been using it for many years in the form of bars of soap, powder make-up, lipsticks or even deodorant sticks.

An evolving regulatory framework

The current context of solid cosmetics is influenced by two new regulations aimed at reducing the manufacture and consumption of single-use plastics.

The Royal Decree on Packaging and Packaging Waste (RD 1055/2022) establishes a new legal framework to prevent and reduce the impact of packaging and packaging waste on the environment, promoting the circular economy. It has a very ambitious goal: to make all packaging put on the market 100% recyclable by 2030, and whenever possible reusable.

In addition, the implementation of a special tax on non-reusable plastic packaging, which came into force in January 2023, penalises industries at a cost of €0.45 per kg of non-recycled plastic put on the market. These regulations are prompting companies to reconsider their production and packaging practices, favouring more sustainable alternatives such as solid cosmetics.

Cosmetics waterless profit 

One of the main attractions of solid cosmetics is their ability to reduce the water footprint and CO2 footprint. By containing very low proportions of water, these products are not only more concentrated, but also allow for a reduction in packaging size, which in turn reduces storage and transport volume. This translates into lower greenhouse gas emissions during the logistics process.

An interesting fact in favour of solid cosmetics is that the World Meteorological Organisation (WMO) estimates that by 2050, 55% of the population will suffer from water stress, i.e. the demand for water will be higher than the amount available. In this context, solid cosmetics presents itself as a viable solution to mitigate the excessive use of water in the production of cosmetic products.

In addition, the shelf life of solid cosmetics, such as shampoos and gels, is typically three times longer than their liquid counterparts. Although the initial cost of solid cosmetics may seem higher, their longer durability and the quality of the ingredients used, such as butters and oils, offer better value for money in the long run. For example, a liquid shampoo has a composition of mostly water, whereas solid tablets contain a higher percentage of ingredients that are more expensive to obtain, which justifies their price.

Challenges in the production

Despite its advantages, the production of solid cosmetics presents certain challenges. The adaptation of processes and facilities is crucial to handle these new formats. For example, some solid cosmetics must be packaged hot and with continuous agitation, and then cooled to the desired shape.
This requires rigorous control to ensure that the product maintains its stability throughout its shelf life. In addition, it is essential to guarantee the microbiological safety of the product until the end of its life cycle.
In the specific case of facial cosmetics, where emulsions are the traditional format, solid alternatives face a radical change in composition that directly influences the texture of the product. A non-greasy finish and adequate extensibility (which entails a specific melting point and hardness) must be achieved.

Consumer demand 

Today's consumers are increasingly informed and discerning about the sustainability of the products they choose. Solid cosmetics is perfectly aligned with this trend, offering an alternative that is not only effective, but also responsible. The cosmetics industry must adapt to this new reality by innovating and reformulating products to meet the expectations of a constantly evolving market.

Conclusion

Solid cosmetics is not just a trend; it is a movement towards a more sustainable and conscious industry. With regulations encouraging the circular economy and consumers demanding responsible products, solid cosmetics is positioned as a viable and attractive solution. As the industry continues to evolve, it is essential that industry professionals stay informed and adapt to these changes, ensuring that the cosmetics of the future are both effective and environmentally friendly.

In round-up, the solid cosmetic represents an only opportunity for the cosmetic industry to lead the path to a more sustainable future, where the beauty and the environmental responsibility coexistan in perfect harmony.

About the author
M Paz Pellús

Mª Paz Pellús García

Pharmacist specialising in cosmetics and regulatory affairs

Graduate in Pharmacy from the UAH and Master's in Cosmetics and Dermopharmacy, Pharmaceutical Care in Dermatology, Pharmaceutical Marketing, and Digital Marketing. Expert in the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic products. Thanks to her expertise in galenic development, regulatory affairs, and skin care, and her knowledge of the market, she has a 360º vision within the cosmetics industry. In addition, she also creates content for social networks and media related to the sector. https://dermofarmablog.com/
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